UltiBots Forum

Final follow-up, for the record:

My rolling-pin method held for awhile, but I just now had a print that pulled the PEI up from the glass again, causing failure. I'll be stripping & re-applying the PEI with new adhesive as recommended by Brad. (When I have a chance).

Just to update from my perspective... I've never had this happen again, so I never bothered to post in the Duet forums.

Regarding ABS on 100C bed: Speaking just for myself, it was just a matter of iterating at 5 degree increments until I got results I was happy with. I seem to get good results in the 90-100C range. Now that I've got my first layer fixed up (it was quite squashed, due to poor measurement methods I was...

Interesting. Those threads address why it might be bad to apply the heater directly to glass (which I would never have suspected!) Hopefully my reply to Scott is more or less correct about why just using aluminum (w/o glass) is a bad idea.

I'm not 100% certain of this, but my assumption has always been that borosilicate glass is used because it has very little expansion when heated and so will maintain its flatness (unlike the aluminum heat spreader, which may warp somewhat as the bed heats up). Since the heat spreader is not rigidly ...

Just to follow up on this. I may eventually wind up using the method Brad suggests above. But here's what I've done in the short term, and it's working so far: Heat bed to 100C Using gloves, remove heated glass+PEI and place on wooden cutting board Using a rolling pin with downward pressure, roll fr...

Ouch. That sounds like a pain. I had not been aware of this issue before now... unfortunately it kind of eliminates the convenience of buying the preapplied adhesive PEI with the printer. In fact, in retrospect it would be much less work to NOT buy it pre-applied.

I've been attempting to print Michael's filament guide ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2363410 ) in ABS. Because this part is long and thin, it's tough to control ABS warping. I've printed it over and over -- each time it curls up at the ends of the larger part, resulting in mangled layers. This...

Do you tie the (-) side of the 24V output to ground as well? If so where? (I.e., jumper it at the PSU, etc).

Hmm, I think we're probably on the same page, though clearly I didn't express myself well. I may have misunderstood your earlier post. You suggested baby stepping "If the layer is too thick or not sticking". In my mind this is NOT the same as saying "If the layer is not precisely the thickness it's ...